Jason Polakow never seems to be scared of a big wave or two!
Marcilio Browne at Jaws
Sometimes it's not a bad idea to be a little scared!
Overcoming Fear 1-4
Before you attempt to ride your board in larger waves than you are used to, first establish some level of comfort in challenging surf conditions. Experienced sailors describe sitting outside of a wave’s shoulder and getting a feel for how the wave breaks, getting closer and closer to the break over time, before actually attempting to ride it. You may consider going out several times to gain experience in the presence of larger surf without the intent of trying to catch a wave at all. Dealing with your emotions in challenging conditions will raise your comfort level and allow you to direct your attention to the act of surfing when you are ready to give it a try.
When you are ready to try riding larger waves, do not to wait too long to catch your first wave. Waiting too long may increase your doubts and lower your confidence.
In that regard, if doubts or fears make you question your ability to catch a wave in larger surf, pull back and sit out in a safer spot until you have regained your composure. Take some deep breaths, calm down, and return only if and when you are in control. Tell your friends what you are experiencing and take ownership of your fear. Do not let your pride lead you to make bad decisions; some of the best surfers in the world acknowledge their fear and deal with it accordingly.
The suspense of wiping out on a wave is often worse than the wipe-out itself. One accomplished surfer I know who surfs large waves claims that wiping out early is the best thing you can do because it gets it over with. He compares it to being a child whose father threatens to spank him—the spanking itself isn’t nearly as bad as the anticipation of receiving it. Trying to avoid a wipeout may make you lose your edge; you have to accept the reality of it happening so you can release yourself of the fear and going for a wave.
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